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Believing in something that requires a leap of faith. Modern Tea, a restaurant again and a tea shop, a tea vendor former Chez Panisse and Zuni Cafe, the idea seems to be that tea can drive a restaurant Full Service. To jump means to overcome the fact that many of these teas are too fragile to resist food, namely desserts.

But in almost all other respects, the modern tea offers a pleasant experience very simple and unpretentious. The dining room is small and great. The windows allow on the east side of the light much more than the awnings and shade trees suggest. In fact, Once seated, it becomes evident that modern Tea has created one of the largest rooms comfortable in the city.

The tables are solid, due to recovery Douglas Fir, decorated with miniature pots and flowers. Water is served in elegant jars. Float glass mosaic of kaleidoscopic color and air diffuse a brick wall and a painting by sports lime green is so ethereal as if all the bricks should not be.

The teas are engaged along a copper bar at the top of the entrance. Some, like the needle Osmanthus Silver ($ 5), white tea, green Lu Shan Clouds and Mist ($ 5), or creamy and earthy, almost suspicious, seven are Beencha Pu-Erh ($ 6), come in a boat so small that it could be cradled in the palm of the hand. There is a small bowl and drink a jug of boiling water for delivery.

Other teas and Breakfast Assam ($ 4), the color of a rich broth, or fresh local herbs ($ 4), the mint chocolate is during our visit, are served in a traditional glass of water with a cup and saucer. Lift the lid and found the leaves of the whole in all its unusual shapes and colors. On both our visits, we had the same server, which is generally very good, enthusiastic, and education in the tea list.

In the afternoon, many guests seemed to be a close friend meeting for tea, when the list desserts, seems a natural place for some snacks (lunch menu is mainly soups and salads). Desserts are generally performed flawlessly, and the release a kind of charm Regional London – unfortunately this charm can also include a touch of sweetness county fair goes right to crush the delicate teas, which are probably destined to endure.

The Cake Texas Sheet ($ 1 per inch square), is tasty and pretty. Simple tea cake ($ 7) includes all the tea, and during our visit was a butter cake with a fine crumb that was too soft even before spreading into the house together with peach jam. It combines the best with a black tea. Fried fruit sugar ($ 6) was a nectarine with a sugar coating dropped like a piece of sheet metal, so it was well mixed Mascarpone for loose nuts and crisp. The most popular dessert is tart citrus butter pudding ($ 5), smooth, creamy and served in a glass jar.

There were happy moments, but it had a price. The summer tomato sandwich ($ was more than cucumber and goat cheese to the quick spread of Tomato Girl, although the salad with its playful bursts of orange oil is a lesson in balance. And the tortillas that came with chopped egg fusion ($ were so hard the knife slipped off the table, how shamefully we still fall. And our server we reported that we would receive store-bought sauce instead of chili sauce Colorado, which made us understand why a young dishwasher with a plastic bag had been near us on the sidewalk before entering

However, protrudes from the modern kitchen cast iron tea. The egg-obsolete Survey cut are blackened inside, but not soft and runny. The food of rich texture and corn waffles Civil War (9 $) are cooked over an open fire. The distribution cream corn, iron pan ($ 7) is firm and tasty. The salmon hash ($ 10), was also used to cut egg is a sin.

In general, if the future looks something like modern tea with his lunch of Slow Food and the brilliant afternoon, and San Francisco just may have something new to believe in

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Where Old is New Again

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